Sinless Spring Rolls

1 3 1/2-oz. package of dried-bean thread vermicelli (woon sen)
1/4 cup finely diced onion
2 carrots, grated
4 scallions, including tops, finely sliced
8 garlic cloves, minced
2 cups chopped cilantro, including stems
1 cup sliced bamboo shoots
4 Tbsp. soy sauce
5 Tbsp. sugar
1 1/2 tsp. pepper, preferably white
1 12-oz. package of spring-roll wrappers
Oil for frying
Sweet and spicy dipping sauce

• Soak the vermicelli in a large bowl of warm water until soft, about 15 minutes. Drain well in a colander. Turn the noodles onto a cutting board and cut into 2-inch pieces.
• Combine the noodles, onions, carrots, scallions, garlic, cilantro, and bamboo shoots in a large mixing bowl. Add the soy sauce, sugar, and pepper. Mix well.
• Cook and stir over medium-high heat until the noodles and vegetables are tender, about 4 minutes. Set aside to cool.
• Preheat the oven to 375ºF.
• Remove the spring-roll wrappers from the package and cover with a damp cloth. Rolls may be baked or deep-fried.
• For baked spring rolls, place the wrapper on a work surface with the pointed edge toward you. Place about 1/4 to 1/3 cup of the filling in the center of the wrapper, fold the point up and over the filling, tuck underneath, roll the sides in toward the middle, then roll tightly to the opposite point. Moisten the edges with water to seal. With a pastry brush, brush all sides of the rolls with vegetable oil. Bake until golden brown, about 15 minutes.
• For deep-fried rolls, use 2 wrappers for each one; proceed in the same manner as for the baked rolls. Fry in 2 inches of oil at 365ºF until golden brown, about 3 minutes. Drain and serve with the dipping sauce.

Makes 12 rolls